Design Hunting in Fukuoka

This Design Hunt takes us to Fukuoka prefecture in the north of the island of Kyushu. With urban hubs, a coastline and mountains, the local culture draws on the natural world and city sophistication. Long a key trade junction, it flourished through its connections to Asia, and was often the first place to accept new ideas and inventions from other countries. Join us on a design hunt for the many cutting-edge, original designs of Fukuoka.

Transcript

00:00

Here we've got some ramen... by Tecchan.

00:04

Wow, even yakitori.

00:07

That looks good. Look at this. They're packed already.

00:11

It's still like around six o'clock but... yeah.

00:16

Probably before going home?

00:19

A glass of beer and a bit of yakitori.

00:22

I love it. This is great.

00:24

So I'm on a Design Hunt here in Fukuoka Prefecture, and I'm standing in Tenjin.

00:30

This is the, one of the biggest entertainment districts in Fukuoka City, in central part of the city.

00:37

Now look behind me. Now those are the icon of this city. It's a landmark.

00:41

It's the famous "yatai," so-called food stalls.

00:45

And as night falls, these stalls light their lanterns, attracting locals and visitors alike.

00:51

Today, let's experience the rich culture of Fukuoka.

00:59

On Design Hunts, we track down unique, regional designs around Japan.

01:07

Today I'm in Fukuoka, a major city in Japan's southwest.

01:12

The gateway to the rest of Asia, it has a long history of many different cultures.

01:26

This history has naturally influenced Fukuoka's own unique culture.

01:32

From traditional textiles with blurred patterns, to fashion with a modern twist.

01:40

Not to mention this highly innovative shrine!

01:43

Let's hunt down some of Fukuoka's unconventional and deeply original designs.

01:51

Mobile "yatai" food stalls are a core part of Fukuoka's food culture.

01:58

Nearly a hundred of them appear every evening across the city, offering casual bites and alcohol.

02:07

Apparently, Fukuoka has the most food stalls in all of Japan.

02:16

This "yatai" culture first took root in the late 1920s.

02:22

There used to be over 400 stalls on the streets.

02:25

But they've been on the decline due to urban zoning and other changes.

02:34

A few years ago, locals launched a movement to protect this culture,

02:38

with a project that maintained infrastructure for food stalls, and encouraged new stalls.

02:45

These popular 'neo' stalls offer more non-traditional cuisine.

02:58

A few of them are really unique.

03:00

I've come to meet one of the designers behind these new stalls.

03:07

Hello, I'm Andy.

03:08

I'm Ide, nice to meet you.

03:12

Fukuoka local and architect, Ide Kenichiro.

03:19

He's designed many relaxing, comfortable spots in central Fukuoka.

03:28

So this is the stall
that you designed?

03:33

- A bit unusual.
- It is, yes.

03:36

It's a cubicle, a cube shape.

03:40

Hi, Sugawara-san, I'm Andy.
We were just talking about the stall.

03:46

Traditional stalls have sloped roofs
like a house, and bare bulbs.

03:57

I wanted to contrast each of
those motifs in this design.

04:04

It feels much more airy.

04:08

You're aware of sitting
outside with most stalls.

04:12

Having this floor here changes
the boundaries a little.

04:18

It feels like we carved out
a separate space.

04:26

This is Sugawara-san.

04:27

May we sit and chat with you?

04:33

Stall owner Sugawara Takeharu was born and raised in Fukuoka.

04:39

He worked at a major beverage company in Tokyo, before coming back to Fukuoka.

04:44

On the hunt for a job with more freedom,

04:47

he heard about the call for new stalls, and took up the challenge in 2019.

04:53

His stall sells coffee; he grinds the beans himself and makes each cup with enormous care.

05:04

- Thank you.
- Let's drink.

05:13

I love having coffee made for me!

05:17

- That's the key!
- Delicious.

05:19

The coffee sinks over time
so make sure to stir it.

05:25

Just perfect.

05:30

The LEDs in the ceiling, the bright but neat walls:

05:34

the design draws attention to the stall's square shape.

05:41

We didn't suggest the cube shape.
The idea didn't come from us.

05:49

Sugawara-san had the idea
of a perfect cube in his mind.

05:57

The idea of a cube among all the
house-shaped stalls was inspiring.

06:06

It evolved into the idea of
a new landscape.

06:11

We examined traditional stalls.

06:15

Took out each element and reshaped it.

06:20

In constant dialog with Sugawara-san.

06:23

So many stalls look alike.
This gave us more freedom.

06:30

The cube-shaped stall brings a fresh element to the streetside scene.

06:38

The unorthodox floor, meanwhile,

06:40

insulates the stall from the heat and cold of the ground over the seasons.

06:46

It feels like a comfy indoor space.

06:49

- How about winter?
- I add plastic sheeting.

06:54

- It stays warm?
- Yes, I use a heater.

06:57

- All open today.
- Yes, I keep one sheet in summer.

07:02

- Even in summer?
- Yes, only open at the sides.

07:05

- Why?
- It makes it harder to enter.

07:10

You make it harder on purpose?

07:14

- That's the idea.
- Interesting. Why?

07:21

I want people to make
the decision to enter, I think.

07:27

I don't want to drag them in.

07:31

They should decide they want to be here.

07:38

It makes their enjoyment much deeper.

07:42

Validates their good decision.

07:46

That small barrier to entry
improves the atmosphere.

07:55

So I leave the back sheet up.

07:57

But not today?

07:59

It's just too hot right now!

08:03

It really feels like a cafe.

08:07

But it's a stall! With a carefully calculated design.

08:13

Most stalls are designed to be hauled by truck or by hand, in a mostly complete state.

08:20

But Sugawara builds and dismantles his stall into pieces, that fit into a small van.

08:31

Starting at 5 pm almost every day, he spends two hours putting the stall together himself.

08:37

Come rain or shine.

08:46

There's a rule that the stall's roof and main structure must be connected.

08:51

So Ide came up with a mechanism that raises the roof, and opens it up.

08:56

Isn't that amazing?

09:05

Sugawara says that at first, setting the stall up took longer than his opening hours!

09:11

But he was determined to provide a relaxing space.

09:15

There's a slight slope here
so the floor won't lie flat.

09:24

Not without rubber blocks.
I had to buy extra.

09:31

It'll keep evolving forever.
There's no endpoint.

09:38

Improve, improve, improve.

09:43

I consider everything and do it myself.

09:48

It's kind of like a plastic model kit.

09:51

More fun to do it by yourself!

09:55

Sugawara's stall has a real sense of human warmth.

10:03

- I came back to Fukuoka.
- After working in Tokyo.

10:09

When I returned, I wanted
my city to feel like a fun place.

10:14

I thought a stall would be
a good way to do that.

10:20

There are all these rules
around public spaces in Tenjin.

10:28

I find them fascinating.

10:31

Stalls are a great example.
They're gone by morning.

10:35

It turns into a public street again.

10:39

Locals get to decide how their space is used.

10:44

It's tied to the culture, right?
A key part of it.

10:49

Stall numbers are up these last ten years.

10:53

Protecting a culture isn't just
about trying new things.

10:59

It's also understanding and
promoting what's great about the old.

11:06

We all decide on these issues.
The result is greater freedom.

11:11

I see.

11:13

Fukuoka's stalls are the perfect stage for serendipitous encounters.

11:22

My next destination is the Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine,

11:25

which is dedicated to the deity of learning, arts, and culture.

11:31

A new structure has been added to this 1100-year-old spiritual complex.

11:40

Welcomed by these beautiful wind chimes.

11:44

Very Japanese - that's to feel the coolness, let's say.

11:59

Excuse me.

12:07

It's the morning ritual - the morning prayers.

12:10

Oh, wow. Look at this beautiful shrine...

12:16

Wow. Look at this.

12:21

I saw it in pictures, but it's completely different to see it in front of us.

12:30

Wow. This is beautiful.

12:37

It's a truly unusual shrine: it looks like a floating forest.

12:47

Planted on the roof of the new structure are 60 varieties of tree,

12:51

including plum, camphor, and cherry.

13:00

The shrine grounds are lush with greenery; the precinct is known as "Tenjin no Mori," Tenjin's grove.

13:11

It's a sacred place, with countless ancient trees.

13:23

The new structure was designed to blend into its surroundings.

13:35

But this unusual building won't be around for long.

13:40

For the first time in 124 years, the main shrine is being renovated.

13:46

The deity it houses needed a temporary home for the next three years.

13:53

It was designed by leading Japanese architect, Sou Fujimoto.

14:01

Dazaifu Tenmangu is dedicated to the deity of arts and culture.

14:06

The cutting-edge design links the shrine's history with its future.

14:13

Shinto priest Takayama Hiroko.

14:18

We wanted a shrine that would
draw people despite the renovations.

14:27

It had to feel special.

14:31

Shinto has always coexisted
with nature. It's very fitting.

14:44

A hidden touch of glass reflects an entire forest.

14:48

It's delicate, yet bold.

14:54

The textiles in the interior were created by international fashion designer, Kurogouchi Maiko.

15:03

These special screens were dyed using plants harvested from the grounds,

15:07

and woven using ancient techniques.

15:12

The extraordinary pattern reflects the landscape around the shrine.

15:27

But what will happen to the building, when the renovations are complete?

15:34

First the deity will return to
the main hall so this will be empty.

15:42

Then it will be dismantled.

15:45

But the plants on the roof
will return to the forest.

15:53

We will replant them there.

15:58

Another link in the shrine's
chain of memories.

16:03

This form is what connects
the past and the future.

16:09

Tenmangu is over 1,100 years old.
Many have served at the shrine.

16:15

All of us are deeply grateful
to do the same in this era.

16:25

Soon, the new building will return to the forest.

16:35

My last stop is Yame, in the south of Fukuoka Prefecture.

16:42

The rich landscape of the Chikugo region, known for its cotton growing.

16:50

They produce a fabric called Kurume Kasuri.

16:53

Lengths of thread are tied off to produce dyed and undyed sections, that form a peculiar pattern when woven.

17:06

By weaving the different sections together, artisans create a soft, almost blurry appearance.

17:15

This pattern is what sets kurume kasuri apart.

17:23

Veteran artisans make fine, careful adjustments to their looms as they work.

17:31

Kurume kasuri is centuries old.

17:34

It's cherished as a sturdy woven fabric, that features a variety of colors and playful patterns.

17:44

I'm visiting someone who's successfully updated kurume kasuri for modern fashion.

17:54

- Hello!
- Welcome.

17:56

- I'm Andy, a pleasure.
- Nice to meet you.

18:01

What an old building!

18:04

It's over a hundred years old.

18:06

-It was a lantern shop.
- Lanterns?

18:10

Yame was famous for lanterns,
Buddhist altars, and things like that.

18:14

- Are you wearing...?
- Yes, kurume kasuri.

18:19

So cool! They suit you, naturally.

18:25

But they also look so modern.

18:29

There's a subtle pattern,
a new one we designed.

18:35

Haruguchi Shogo and his team work on projects that examine and revitalize local cultures.

18:45

Based in the Chikugo region, they collect and curate items from nature, history, and daily life.

18:57

Another member of the group runs an inn that showcases the beauty of Yame's traditional crafts.

19:06

From "aizome" tables to lantern lampshades.

19:09

The interior is a reflection of local artisanship.

19:16

The team has also created fashion designs that maximize the beauty of local kurume kasuri.

19:23

I'm excited to take a look!

19:26

Oh wow, look at all this!

19:30

They're all monpe pants?

19:32

Yes, we have a wide variety
of kurume kasuri monpe.

19:37

There are so many!

19:39

100 to 200 pairs. A lot more
color than you'd expect, I think.

19:46

You chose to focus on monpe
pants for this project?

19:51

We thought it would be the best way
to promote kurume kasuri.

19:58

Wearing kimono or skirts was long the norm for Japanese women.

20:02

Monpe are often considered the first pants widely worn by women in Japan.

20:08

They gained popularity during the war because they were so easy to move around in.

20:14

Traditional monpe have a relaxed silhouette.

20:20

Haruguchi's group slimmed the waist and ankles to create modern unisex pants.

20:34

Their customers love the comfortable cotton and Asian designs,

20:38

to the point that artisans are struggling to keep up with demand!

20:47

There are pockets at the front.

20:50

Why add them there?

20:55

Monpe were for farming. A bulging
back pocket is uncomfortable.

21:03

Let's give them a try!

21:10

After tightening the ankles, my monpe outfit is complete.

21:16

- Is this an old pattern?
- Each weaver has their own patterns.

21:20

We designed this pair
to match this firm's pattern.

21:31

- How do I look?
- They suit you!

21:37

Let's see.
Oh, they're great!

21:43

A clear kasuri pattern.

21:44

I've fallen for these, I think!

21:48

They're so light and easy to move around in.

21:53

A comfortable natural fiber.

22:00

I feel like soft, blurred patterns are
a core part of kurume kasuri.

22:06

But some have no pattern at all.
What inspired these?

22:13

The blurred pattern is an important part.

22:18

But we fell in love with the texture.

22:22

That comes from the weaving process.

22:26

So a pattern isn't actually necessary.

22:30

It's easier to match with Western
clothes without a strong pattern.

22:38

We wanted to offer a wide variety
of ways to engage with our lineup.

22:47

I was genuinely astonished at how comfortable they were.

22:53

Haruguchi's group even sell the patterns for their monpe.

22:56

It's an open-source project, and anyone can recreate it.

23:03

Even if people don't own kurume kasuri, using the monpe pattern could be a first touchpoint.

23:14

Scraps of fabric left over from making monpe can be used to patch holes, or in handicrafts.

23:24

If you want a back pocket, just add one!

23:26

This laid-back approach perfectly showcases kurume kasuri.

23:32

You're revitalizing entire regions.

23:38

And reviving their culture at the same time.

23:43

You're taking on this ambitious challenge.

23:46

And also tackling a whole bunch
of projects simultaneously.

23:51

It's hard to slow these issues.

23:55

Ten weavers closed in the last ten years.

24:00

We didn't know this culture existed.

24:07

But we fell in love once we discovered it.

24:11

We wanted to promote it before it vanished.

24:15

To allow others to experience it.

24:20

We dedicated ourselves to that goal.
Our monpe are part of the answer.

24:28

Haruguchi himself didn't know much about kurume kasuri.

24:31

It's why he was so drawn to it, and so determined to showcase it.

24:38

He showed me another store nearby.

24:40

Oh wow, look at this.
It's so fun!

24:47

There's a lot.

24:49

Yes, I see glass, ceramics
and pottery as well.

24:55

It's a big space.

25:00

Our Former Terasaki Residence store.

25:05

It's a boutique?

25:05

We made up our own term:
a 'nativescape' store.

25:12

It emphasizes the local aspect.

25:15

And how it links the past with the future.

25:22

We're promoting a landscape,
not products. Hence, 'nativescape.'

25:31

One of the items available at this 'nativescape' store is Japanese sparklers.

25:37

They're a beloved summer tradition in Japan.

25:41

But their shape is different around the country.

25:43

In the east they're often twisted.

25:48

In the west, they're a smooth taper.

25:54

Both produce small, charming sparkles.

25:58

There are all kinds of items on the shelves.

26:01

But I noticed something unexpected: a showerhead.

26:05

It looks like a regular manufactured item.

26:09

A local showerhead?

26:12

From a nearby Chikugo firm.
It felt like a regional item.

26:21

The maker is from nearby
Yanagawa which has canals.

26:26

Locals used them for household water
and played in them.

26:32

A part of the town's history.

26:34

Today the water isn't safe to use.

26:40

And the river's not safe to play in.

26:48

There's a technology that uses microbubbles
to improve water quality.

26:53

When the manufacturer learned this,
it brought back childhood memories.

26:58

So he used that tech to make
household showerheads.

27:04

It also cleans oily skin better
so you need less soap.

27:11

Microbubble technology can help clean and save water.

27:15

No doubt this will lead to a cleaner, better-maintained river.

27:22

Haruguchi sees these designs as part of local culture,

27:26

as well as traditional arts and crafts.

27:30

It's why I felt this showerhead
has a place in our store.

27:37

I see the cultural link, yes.

27:41

A flexible approach to maintaining local culture keeps it an exciting challenge.

27:51

That spirit is deeply rooted in Fukuoka culture.