Canoeing a Secluded Valley Washed in Autumn Colors

A pair of canoers take on one of the fastest-flowing streams in Hokkaido Prefecture to feast their eyes on a valley adorned with autumn leaves. It's a paddler's delight to enjoy splendid views from their canoe!

Transcript

00:01

Rough rapids from recent autumn rains.

00:04

Today, we ride some of the best rapids in Hokkaido

00:07

by Canadian canoe.

00:12

Our goal is the vibrant autumn leaves in the gorge,

00:16

a wonderful view only accessible from a canoe.

00:22

Beautiful.

00:23

It feels great!

00:29

Join us for a thrilling ride!

00:35

Wild Hokkaido!

00:40

The Hidaka Mountain Range stretches south from central Hokkaido.

00:47

The Saru River flows from this mountain range

00:50

and empties into the Pacific Ocean.

00:52

It is 104 kilometers long.

00:58

Riding this river are veteran canoers who live in Hokkaido,

01:02

Greg Bruyere and his wife Mari.

01:06

These two have ridden the rivers of Hokkaido for over 10 years.

01:10

This is their fourth time down the Saru River.

01:16

Looks like we're dealing with a little bit of low water here today, Mari.

01:20

You can see... You know, the water's quite clear,

01:22

so you can see the rocks.

01:24

- Yeah.
- Anywhere there's a white wave,

01:26

it's going to be a rock. So the key today is to

01:30

look for the green tongues and the deep channels.

01:34

And it's going to be a technical run today.

01:37

It's going to be a fun day, I think.

01:39

I'm a little nervous about this.

01:43

The couple will travel for roughly 10 kilometers about halfway down the river.

01:48

The many rapids and drops make this a course even experts find challenging.

01:54

They're headed to a prime spot to enjoy the autumn colors

01:58

in the Saru River Gorge.

02:03

There is a chance their canoe could capsize,

02:05

so they check their gear carefully.

02:11

A very important piece of equipment today is rope.

02:16

One little knot here,

02:18

and if I pull it,

02:21

it all comes out.

02:23

So then I can swim to shore

02:25

and pendulum the canoe into shore.

02:28

So it's kind of our

02:30

little safety feature that we use on the river.

02:36

Well, let's have a good day.

02:37

Looks like they're ready to go.

02:41

It's the middle of October, and today's low was 8 degrees Celsius.

02:46

Here we go!

02:49

Greg sits in the back.

02:57

Let's go!

02:59

To handle this large Canadian canoe,

03:02

it's important that they both know what the other is thinking.

03:07

When we're reading a rapid, especially in low water conditions,

03:11

we're always looking for the deepest channels.

03:14

Because otherwise we're just going to get stuck or hit a rock.

03:17

It is important for the person in front to dodge the rocks.

03:22

I am always on the lookout for rocks and paddle to avoid them.

03:28

Fallen trees like this one are especially difficult to see.

03:32

Using their best judgement, they focus on proceeding along the safest route.

03:44

Perfect.

03:46

- The old gate.
- Canyon!

03:49

Welcome to the canyon!

03:55

They paddle through a natural gateway of giant rocks.

03:58

And from now they enter the gorge.

04:05

The autumn leaves have come into view.

04:09

But before they get into the excitement, they step ashore.

04:16

Because of the many rapids and drops

04:18

on this mid-stream stretch of the Saru River,

04:21

they must be more careful than usual to choose the best routes.

04:27

They hold a strategy meeting.

04:30

Right, so we want to be on the left side, work our way to the right.

04:33

Once we come around that corner, we want to go right down the middle.

04:36

We want to aim for that...

04:39

the middle of that little drop, basically.

04:42

Okay.

04:44

White waves mean there are rocks hiding underneath the currents.

04:48

They avoid these areas as they proceed.

04:52

Yeah, give me a good draw.

04:56

This is their first challenge of the day.

05:05

Nice!

05:08

- Nice one, Mari!
- Nice!

05:13

Beautiful! Let's see how they did it.

05:16

With quick motions, Mari uses her paddle to maintain their forward course.

05:21

Meanwhile, Greg steers hard to change the direction of the canoe.

05:29

- We did it! Yay!
- Nice!

05:35

They bail the water that has collected out of their canoe.

05:38

If they don't, they risk it tilting.

05:47

After all the excitement, they enjoy a few moments of peace and quiet.

05:53

This feels wonderful!

05:58

Autumn is great here... with the colorful leaves.

06:04

Now for the "SENSEI's TIP!"

06:09

Greg and Mari love to use their canoe.

06:14

But have you ever wondered how they get around

06:16

when they're not in their canoe?

06:21

Normally, if you park at the starting point,

06:24

you'll have to catch a ride with a friend

06:26

or guide to get back to your car,

06:28

which requires more than one car.

06:31

But what do Greg and Mari do?

06:36

Either use some type of public transportation.

06:40

Either a taxi or a bus or train.

06:44

They drop their canoe off at the starting point,

06:47

then drive their car to the end of the line and park it there.

06:51

Then they catch a bus or train back to the starting point.

06:59

The people of Hokkaido live in close proximity to their natural environment.

07:03

Quite often, the roads follow the course of the rivers.

07:09

Remember when we rode the train out east near Kushiro?

07:17

The bus was packed full of high school kids, and Mari and I in our river gear.

07:21

It's pretty funny. But nobody cares.

07:25

Sometimes, these two will paddle down the river twice in one day.

07:30

Be sure to make the most of your available transport.

07:36

Paddling down the Saru River in autumn.

07:40

They've arrived at the most difficult spot on the Saru River,

07:44

the three drops at the Mitsuoka Bridge area.

07:49

They conquer the first drop by slipping over the underwater boulders.

07:56

At the second drop, they must zigzag between jagged rocks

08:00

and avoid the huge boulders awaiting them.

08:07

If the water is too high or too low,

08:09

these three drops are impossible to maneuver a canoe through.

08:14

The conditions today look good as they make their first attempt.

08:19

And we're looking for that pocket.

08:22

Looking for that pocket!

08:26

First drop cleared!

08:28

- Okay, you see that rock?
- Yeah!

08:30

- Just next to it, keep driving forward.
- Okay.

08:33

They straighten up and head for the second drop.

08:35

That's it! Good!

08:37

Perfect.

08:40

Nice!

08:42

They squeak by the large boulder and clear the second drop!

08:47

I read that line right!

08:49

Give me a high five on that one!

08:52

Nice!

08:55

Let's have another look at that.

08:59

They slid cleanly over that large rock.

09:05

At the second drop, they passed right between the rocks with no trouble.

09:22

Watch how they handle their paddles.

09:25

Can you see how they keep the canoe delicately balanced

09:28

using a light touch?

09:31

This couple is amazingly in sync!

09:38

Now they are ready to face the third drop.

09:42

First, they do a preview.

09:47

Oh, wow!

09:53

That's when the water is higher. People go over the rock.

09:58

This water, we hit that, we're over in two seconds.

10:02

That's nasty!

10:04

It's scary.

10:05

Yeah, the water is coming this way.

10:08

As soon as you hit that, boom! Over you go.

10:12

No, not today.

10:15

That is a nasty drop.

10:18

Number one, we don't want to get hurt.

10:21

Number two, we don't want to hurt our canoe,

10:24

because then I have to fix it!

10:28

They decide to bypass the third drop and go on foot.

10:32

They will save that conquest for their next trip.

10:43

After passing the famous Mitsuoka Bridge on the Saru River,

10:47

they've come to the halfway point of their journey.

10:54

It's time for lunch.

10:59

They've brought various kinds of dips

11:02

that they eat on Japanese rice crackers.

11:05

They like that these crackers are crunchy and last a long time.

11:18

It's delicious!

11:21

Canoeing as a couple.

11:23

They say this time spent together is invaluable.

11:28

Greg always says, "Couples that play together stay together."

11:35

While recognizing that we each have things we like to do,

11:39

we value the time we can spend together, like this.

11:43

You know, canoeing for us is just another tool

11:46

to get into the wilderness and to get outside

11:49

and enjoy each other's company.

11:51

I mean, it's fun, it's challenging.

11:55

The drive to the river is always beautiful, especially in the fall.

11:58

Yeah, it's a great sport.

12:00

We really enjoy doing it together.

12:06

About 6 kilometers from their start,

12:09

they are surrounded by steep, 20-meter-high cliffs.

12:14

This is the beautiful spot they came all this way to see.

12:21

Notice the reflections on the water. So beautiful.

12:26

There's a nice reflection.

12:29

In Japan, the beautiful sight of autumn leaves

12:32

is referred to as "kinshuu," which means "tapestry of colors."

12:42

The grand vistas of these canyons are a privilege reserved for canoers.

12:49

Looks like they've found something.

12:52

A dipper. Oh, it stepped right there. Hello.

12:55

- Hello!
- Hello dipper-san!

12:58

Look how close we are to it.

13:02

Hello, dipper!

13:04

It seems to be singing on a stage.

13:08

Even for the wild birds,

13:10

perhaps autumn is a time for respite before the harsh winter.

13:17

These two love autumn on the Saru River,

13:20

and they are nearing the end of their thrilling ride.

13:31

- And that's that!
- We're here!

13:33

Nice. Good job today.

13:36

That was so much fun.

13:46

- We did it!
- Good job.

13:49

Awesome day today.

13:51

So much fun.

13:54

What a view to end our ride with!

13:59

That's a beautiful take out, that's for sure.

14:04

From the start I was nervous and excited and had to really concentrate.

14:09

It all made me feel so alive! It was so much fun.

14:16

I made no mistakes reading the lines all the way down, so it felt great.

14:23

Hidaka is a really wild part of Hokkaido,

14:26

and there's some fantastic rivers to paddle here.

14:31

You know, you get a feeling of remoteness,

14:34

and you get a real feeling of being in the wilderness

14:39

in this part of Hokkaido. So,

14:42

yeah, we love it here.

14:45

Wild Hokkaido! takes you on great activities

14:49

in the great outdoors of northern Japan.

14:52

Join us next time for another adventure!