Onomichi Betcha is a three-day festival in Hiroshima Prefecture. The deity of Onomichi's Ikkyu Shrine descends from a mountain, carried in a mikoshi and accompanied by three oni, or ogres. First celebrated in 1807, this matsuri began as a way to drive away an epidemic, and so the continuing impact of COVID-19 gave the event special significance in 2022. Masked figures carry sticks with which to "torment" spectators. But being hit or poked with a stick is actually said to bring good fortune.
Ogres hit passersby with sticks.
And a portable shrine gets some rough treatment.
These are two highlights of an unusual matsuri.
This mountain shrine is at the heart of the festival.
Today three of the masks used in the festival are being prepared.
They are for the ogres: "oni."
This cord is used for
the Betcha masks.
About 25 people wear the masks each year.
The cords get worn out.
So we make new cords by hand,
just like in the old days.
The oni will accompany this mikoshi - or portable shrine.
We began repairing
the lower part in 2002.
It took two years to finish
fixing the whole thing.
All of the carving was done by hand,
as was the gold decoration.
We did all of it ourselves.
No artisans involved.
The matsuri dates back to 1807, when three oni and a mikoshi helped to drive away an epidemic.
Since then, the mikoshi has carried the shrine's deity every year.
The Betcha matsuri begins with ritual cleansing of the participants.
6PM. The mikoshi makes its way down into the streets.
Rocking the mikoshi is believed to boost the deity's power.
COVID-19 was a major theme of the 2022 matsuri.
A traditional performance of dance and music is presented to the deity.
The town's main street has a resting place for the mikoshi.
The third day of the matsuri begins at 6AM.
This is when the oni appear.
The oni and shishi, a mythical lion-like beast, head up a local mountain.
At 7:30AM - they come down into the town and rendezvous with the mikoshi.
The benefits of being hit by an oni may include getting smarter,
having a big family, or recovering from illness.
The flat-faced "beta" is a high-ranking oni.
The word "betcha" means flat.
"Shoki" is a tengu mountain spirit.
That name is said to come from a Chinese deity.
"Soba" is a female snake, with a white face resembling soba noodle flour.
Being "bitten" by the shishi is said to bring good luck.
The matsuri gets our blood
pumping here in Onomichi.
We grew up with the music,
and getting hit by the oni.
Kids look forward to joining in
when they grow up.
The Betcha Matsuri means a lot
to everyone in Onomichi.
It's special for us.
People look forward to the oni and mikoshi bringing them good fortune.
As the parade covers a distance of 20 kilometers,
oni performers and mikoshi bearers take turns.
Late in the morning, the mikoshi arrives at the station plaza.
Here, too, it is raised and lowered energetically.
Taiko drums are a vital part of the Betcha.
The rhythm is an arrangement of ancient festival music.
After spending a full day parading through the town,
in the evening the procession returns to the main street.
The oni and mikoshi bearers are even more active.
It's past 6PM.
After enjoying a day in the world of mortals,
the deity must now go back to the shrine.
The oni help out with the drumming.
But the deity is resisting its return - three times the mikoshi goes up the steps,
only to come back down again.
When the mikoshi finally moves into the shrine precinct, the matsuri reaches its climax.
The bearers skillfully spin the mikoshi three times at a steep angle -
- this is one of the highlights of the festival.
But the deity is still not ready to go home,
and so the mikoshi has to be carried around the shrine grounds another three times.
At last the deity returns to the shrine,
where it will watch over the community until the next festival.