Oniyo: Kurume

In Kurume, Fukuoka Prefecture, the first week of the new year culminates in Oniyo: the night of the oni, or demon. Six giant torches, measuring 13 meters and weighing 1.2 tons, are moved around a shrine precinct. They create a shadow in which the oni can emerge. One torch is taken to the river, where the oni conducts a ritual that cleanses people of their troubles. This matsuri also recounts a 1,600-year-old story about a local hero defeating an outlaw—who goes on to become the oni.

Transcript

00:18

Bright flames draw the eyes of the crowd.

00:30

But lurking in the shadows is a demon, an "oni."

00:34

This is the night of the oni: Oniyo.

00:49

The event takes place in Kurume, Fukuoka Prefecture - at Daizenji Tamatare-gu Shrine.

00:58

In a week-long ritual that begins on New Year's Eve, people pray for a bountiful harvest and good fortune.

01:06

Oniyo takes place on the final night.

01:09

It's the coldest time of year.

01:16

On January 7th, six giant torches are lit as a prayer for a year free of anxiety.

01:27

At 8PM, the "water-scooping" begins.

01:30

Around 20 participants, almost naked, walk to the river below the shrine.

01:44

There, they will perform a purification ritual.

01:48

River water is scooped up into a bucket, and dedicated to the deities.

02:02

In the shrine precinct, six huge torches wait to be lit.

02:10

All other sources of light are switched off, plunging the grounds into darkness.

02:24

A bell marks the start of the climactic event.

02:31

A flame is brought out from the shrine.

02:35

This is the demon's fire - lit with flint on New Year's Eve and kept alight for seven days.

02:47

It's brought slowly to the area where the torches await.

02:59

As spectators look on, the flame is used to light one of the torches.

03:04

This is a cue for all of the torches to be lit.

03:19

The flames illuminate the precinct, which just moments ago was shrouded in darkness.

03:29

To increase the intensity of the flames, bindings are removed.

03:34

The heat makes it a difficult job.

03:41

The fire is said to bring good health.

03:44

Spectators and participants bathe in the sparks, and pray for a good year ahead.

03:55

On a stage in front of the torches, a ritual is enacted.

03:59

This links to the origin of the festival.

04:07

1,600 years ago, a local hero is said to have defeated an outsider who led an armed group that was terrorizing the community.

04:29

Removing these stylized spears represents an end to the terror and the return of peace.

04:45

Removing the mask signifies the capture of the outlaw leader.

04:55

And this drawing of swords symbolizes the decisive victory.

04:58

In death, the outlaw leader was transformed into the protective oni who features in the festival.

05:10

Drums are beaten and a bell is struck.

05:13

It's time for the highlight of the evening: the moving of the torches.

05:21

There are no second chances.

05:23

They get one go to move the torches.

05:29

Communication is key.
I hope people enjoy seeing it!

05:37

The torches each measure 13 meters, and weigh 1.2 tons.

05:48

Six teams of 30 to 40 people lift them with forked sticks, and move them across the precinct.

05:59

They navigate the packed crowd.

06:01

One wrong move could have serious consequences.

06:09

This tense and stressful work takes an hour.

06:17

But all six torches are moved safely into position.

06:24

The torches are on the west side of the shrine.

06:27

This creates a large area of darkness on the east side - where the main character in the festival, the oni, is now free to move.

06:45

The bright sacred torches in the west create a special darkness in the east that empowers the oni to move out into the world of humans.

07:00

The oni circles the Demon Hall seven-and-a-half times in near-total darkness.

07:08

The oni is not supposed to be seen by outsiders.

07:12

So parishioners - adults and children - surround the oni to shield it from prying eyes.

07:24

Once the circling of the hall is complete, one torch is moved to the hall's east side.

07:36

In the darkness beyond the reach of that torch, the oni and its protectors advance.

07:47

This torch will be taken out of the shrine, and eventually to the river.

07:57

The flames purify the path, and help the oni move towards the water.

08:05

In this community, it is believed that the oni has divine powers.

08:11

It accepts the burden of everyone's worries and troubles, then washes them away in the river.

08:23

Local people are grateful for the actions of this entity, even if it is a demon.

08:33

The torch used to guide the oni approaches a large gate.

08:40

A flaming torch - and a wooden structure.

08:44

The torch must pass through quickly, making no contact.

08:53

As the flames move forward, they purify the places where the oni will move.

09:05

The guiding torch has done its job, and so now, at the side of the river, it is extinguished.

09:15

The oni can then conduct its own purification ritual, under cover of darkness.

09:21

After that, it returns to the shrine.

09:30

The remaining torches are extinguished, and Oniyo comes to an end.

09:42

It's a ceremony of fire and shadow, brought to life by over 400 enthusiastic local participants.